June 19th Bapaume to Bray-sur-Somme

Bapaume to Bray-sur-Somme

distance 29 kms

Last evening we had a super evening chez Freddie and Cecile. There were twelve adults and Marianne who lapped up the adult attention (as any eight year old would) There were two large tables at right angles to each other so we were divided into boys and girls (like an Arab gathering)

Freddie and Cecile had done us proud and we ate and drank royally. Cecile is of Polish origin so we were presented with a bottle of Polish vodka as a parting gift. Incredibly generous.

Freddie had shown us all around his private museum. His World War 1 collection can only be described thus. There were four mannequins dressed in four complete WW1 outfits complete with guns and helmets. He had lots of examples of shell art and many many artefacts which he had collected over the years. It was an incredible testimony to his passion for the history of WW1 in his area. He offered me a Lee Enfield rifle to hold. I don't think I have ever held a gun in my life but I have obviously watched too many films for I was able to manipulate the bolt and open it ready to load it with ammunition. It was strange to hold such a powerful instrument of death .

Today we set off from central Bapaume after I had bought my bread from the only boulangerie open on a Sunday. Fortunately there were no ladies buying a dozen cakes and the delay was minimal. First we were heading for Ligny-Thilloy. We encountered a Sunday running club (for fatties it seemed) and we nearly kept up with them walking. After what seemed half an hour we passed a sign which said we were in Avesnes-les-Bapaume which we had passed last evening on the way in to Bapaume. 180Degree wrong turnings briefly flashed through the brain before we saw the sign for entering Ligny as expected. Phew! Next was Flers and then Longeval where we (deliberately) diverted 2 kms to see the South African Memorial.

On our return to Longeval we went in to the cafe/epeicerie/depot de pain/lottery seller/la poste/newsagent/wood seller/ garage selling petrol. The company store from the wild West came to mind. Drinking our coffee minding our own business as you do and in waltzed a boy of around 7 with his football who walked straight up to me and kissed my cheek. They do have some strange but endearing habits. His brother did the same and then his father … shook our hands and wished us “bonjour.”

Madame la Maire de Contalmaison

We had a “rendez-vous” with the Maire of Contalmaison which is the resting place of many of McRae's division. McRae's division consisted of many volunteer football teams including players from Hearts and Raith rovers. There is a fantastic cairn which was built by Scottish craftsmen in the village which has a current population of 123. 

The Maire arrived at the same time as us and proceeded to carry in the obvious means of a little civic reception. Bert had been expecting to lay his wreath and go and the Mairie was to be a little formality for the wreath was to be taken in to the Mairie after it was laid. Instead Madame Maire put her sash of office on and carrying a large bouquet accompanied us to lay Bert's wreath. It was quite a moving little ceremony. Pictures were taken then we were invited back to the Mairie for a very large slice of Apple tart and an equally large glass of bubbly.

It was a lovely relaxed little reception but we still had eleven kilometres (which turned out to be 13kms) to walk to Bray-sur-Somme. The flat terrain of Flanders has given way to the gently rolling and sometimes less gentle hills of Haut-Somme. The clue is the word haut. It was quite warm in the afternoon and we were not sorry to meet up with the gals in Bray-sur-Somme at around 4.30.

We have been parked up in the Ski centre parking for five nights which has suited the logistics of the walk and the visits to the school at Chamblain and chez Gerard and Irene and Freddie and Cecile. Amazingly our electricity has held out despite little chance for the solar panel to add anything back. Tonight we have moved a long way south to the municipal camp site at Albert. From what we saw as we drove through and a brief explore by me on my bike Albert seems a very attractive town. The plan is to stay here for two nights then head South to seek the sun.