June 16th Noeux-les-Mines to Loos-en-Gohelle

 Noeux-les-Mines to Loos en Gohelle

What a day!! We spent a peaceful night in the ski centre car park
and arrived for today's “short” walk of 17kms rested and raring to go at 9.00 am. We walked to Mazingarbe along a fairly busy road where we met up with the gals to place little commemorative poppy crosses at Robert Dunsire VC's grave.

Robert Dunsire VC's Gravestone

Unfortunately it started to rain just then and it gradually increased in intensity. Bert had organised a lovely little touch. While Pauline and Susan placed the crosses he played Robert Dunsire's song which I had recorded last year.

Earlier we had passed the abattoir wall where British soldiers were shot at dawn for cowardice ( which would almost certainly be recognised today as Post Traumatic Stress disorder ) Pour encourager les autres.

In the continuing drizzle we set off through Mazingarbe for Loos en Gohelle. It was an arrow straight busy road which went gradually uphill for several kilometres. The lorries surging past sent lovely showers to add to those from the heavens. Finally at the top of the hill we arrived at the British Cemetry at “Dud corner” so named because of the huge quantity of “dud” ammunition which was uncovered when the cemetery was being built.

I can honestly say that it was the most beautiful memorial I have ever seen. It was designed by a British architect Sir Herbert Baker and is visually stunningly beautiful as well as achingly poignant.

We took a short cut to Loos-en-Gohelle which is a pretty little town then headed out of town to meet the gals at Hill 70. Suffice to say that we reached the top without stopping and not out of breath. Hill 70 is little more than a rise in an otherwise flat landscape (apart from the pit bings) yet its capture cost (check the number) British lives.

The girls arrived just as we reached the top and we could see several Gendarmes controlling access to Lens. Today is England against Wales and the Maire is keen to keep out supporters without tickets and to minimize any trouble with a 24 hour alcohol ban. Coffee and a sandwich and we were off to Chamblain-Chatelaine for our visit to a primary school.

We set off early against the possibility of traffic difficulty cause by the football but in the end we got there smoothly and easily and an hour early. However as we arrived in the car park we were met and taken into the “canteen” for coffee and apple crumble. Everyone was very friendly when we were intoduced, and we were quickly put at ease. We were at the school because Gerard (surname to follow) had completed a project with the CM2 (primary 7) class about WW1 and they had researched their family trees back to the 1914 or beyond. The class knew we were coming and had prepared questions which ranged from the insightful and the straight forward to the usual child standby of “what is your favourite ?” The one question which I hadn't expected related to “Nessie” and whether we had seen her or not. We spent a good hour with the CM2 class then we had half an hour with the CM1 (primary 6 class) who again asked question which we did our best to answer.

The dinner lady had asked while I was having coffee why I wasn't wearing my kilt. I took it as a serious question and rattled on about how heavy it was and how much heavier when it was wet etc but her question was just a prelude to the real question which was “ What do you wear underneath?” This caused great hilarity among the other ladies. I told them that it was a well guarded Scottish secret and if I told them I would have to kill them afterwards.

Ecole Primaire Chamblain-Chatelaine

We exchanged gifts and Bert and Susan presented the class with a plate which showed all of Fife's mines on a map. All too soon the bell rang at 15.45 and it was time for the children to go home. Not the teachers. They gathered with Gerard ourselves and the head and two deputy mayors for a little reception. Visitors = good excuse for tea and cake. Two huge "tartes aux pommes" were produced and large tranches distributed. It was quite relaxed and the conversation flowed. Susan and myself were instantly back into staffroom mode.

At 17.00 we went to the Mairie which is next door to view an exhibition of Gerard's project and some other work by the CM2 class. Parents and interested local people were there as well as a smattering of the CM2 children. As is often the case in France there was a “top table” consisting of The president of the local society of which Gerard was a member, Gerard, Deputy Mayor, the CM2 teacher and the headteacher and our four selves. The form seemed to dictate that all spoke in turn thanking each other for coming and praising the children for their efforts. It fell to me to reply on our behalf so I followed the template by thanking everyone for their tremendous welcome and praising the children for their good behaviour and fantastic work. My French was strained to near breaking point but the President said that he had understood every word – I wish I could say the same for his. We were presented with bottles of wines and boxes of chocolates which was incredibly generous.

The exhibition was genuinely interesting and well presented but after about half an hour exhaustion hit suddenly and we all seemed to wilt at once. Once we deduced that politeness had been satisfied we left having enjoyed a fantastic unrepeatable experience.