June 7th Amsterdam to Bergen-op-Zoom

Another beautiful sunny day. It is getting boring already (not) We are sorry to be leaving our little bit of heaven. We have really enjoyed this site and we will certainly return if and when we use the Newcastle to Amsterdam ferry. We feel as if we have only scratched the surface of Amsterdam and we like what we saw.

A10 (Amsterdam ring) to A4 to Rotterdam to A29 to Bergen-op-Zoom with a detour on the N59 to Oude-Tonge. The signs in Holland are easy to read and give you lots of warning when you need to take ane exit (uit)

Oude-Tonge is a lovely friendly little town. We arrived and tried to find someone who knew the story of the crashed Lancaster bombers. We found a few people but the directions were all different. MMM if in doubt stop for lunch. The central cafe at which we stopped had an owner who spoke excellent English and knew where the memorial to the crashed Lancaster bomber was. He was exceedingly helpful and drew a plan of how to get to the crash site which was about 3 kilometres from the town centre. Remarkably we reached it on our bikes without major detours. Unfortunately it was the story of a Lancaster bomber which crashed on July 21^st 1943. Wrong bomber but interesting nevertheless. On the way we stopped at the cemetery at Oude-Tonge but there was no reference to the brief enterrement of the October 6^th crashed airmen.

Thirty minutes saw us in the beautifully kept extremely moving war graves cemetery of Bergen-op Zoom. It took us a while to locate the grave of “Flying Officer Charles Wallace Crawford pilot who died on October 6^th 1944 aged 24” in Row B 20 grave 9. The graves are beautifully tended. 

The ramrod straight rows of white gravestones shimmering in the mid afternoon sun contrasted with the randomly dotted trees of the natural forest next door. It was a very sad occasion because it is unclear whether any other member of the family has ever visited the grave previously. Although we had never met Charles Crawford (obviously) standing by his grave through up a surprising lot of personal feelings which by their nature should remain personal. It was impossible to avoid noting the incredibly young average age of the young men who were buried there having lost their lives fighting for our country.

We are now in a designated parking area for motorhomes on the waterfront in Bergen-op-zoom. It is not quite as peaceful as last evening but it is FREE.

Chrarles Crawford's grave stone

June 20th Bray-sur-Somme to Thiepval

Bray-sur-Somme to Thiepval

Distance 19kms

Bert and Susan kindly picked us up at around 9.15 after an hour's drive from their hotel to make the short hop back to Bray-sur-Somme. The meteo was unremittingly depressing. Morning – light rain. Afternoon- heavy rain. 

I guessed we were going to get wet and in a way it was quite apposite because it has rained most days. In fact we were dry all morning. Our route took us around a local airfield , alongside which is the factory where the cockpits for the Airbus are manufactured.

The road was beautifully surfaced, arrow straight and completely empty (apart from two old boys who were putting their best foot forward)

these feet have seen 300 kms

We were to meet the gals for lunch in the centre of Albert. A sort Last Supper at lunch time. The gals had chosen a bar/brasserie called Corner's Bar for which I didn't have high hopes. It had been full of British football supporters getting drunk last evening as I cycled past and is the sort of place that I normally avoid. How wrong can you be. We were welcomed warmly and enjoyed a relaxed lunch each finding something to our taste. A surreal discussion with the waitress about the name of the local beer Ch' te and other excrement sounding words in English like sheet made for a relaxed atmosphere. The food was really good and the beer was far from how the name sounded.

Seven very wet kilometres later and Bert and I had the satisfaction of reaching the end of our walk of remembrance 2016.

We had arrived at the very impressive Thiepval Memorial which commemorates the tens of thousands of French and British soldiers who have no known resting places. Each and every name is inscribed on the walls of the memorial. 

Thiepval was closed to visitors apart from those who had made a reservation (because of on going works towards a huge 1^st of July Centenary event. Bert had thoughtfully reserved us a visit and he and Susan laid a wreath for the Thiepval dead from the Methil Memorial. As with most of the people that have heard about our walk the Commonwealth Graves Commission representative who guided us to the monument thought that we must be mad.

Many damp photos later it was time to be ushered back to the reality of the souvenir shop and in to the car where Bert could scarcely drive for the water vapour rising from each of us.

It has been a fantastic experience and one that will live long in the memory. Truly an adventure before dementia.  

315 kms in 12 days. Not bad for two old boys.

Many thanks Bert for allowing us to share your special journey!

June 19th Bapaume to Bray-sur-Somme

Bapaume to Bray-sur-Somme

distance 29 kms

Last evening we had a super evening chez Freddie and Cecile. There were twelve adults and Marianne who lapped up the adult attention (as any eight year old would) There were two large tables at right angles to each other so we were divided into boys and girls (like an Arab gathering)

Freddie and Cecile had done us proud and we ate and drank royally. Cecile is of Polish origin so we were presented with a bottle of Polish vodka as a parting gift. Incredibly generous.

Freddie had shown us all around his private museum. His World War 1 collection can only be described thus. There were four mannequins dressed in four complete WW1 outfits complete with guns and helmets. He had lots of examples of shell art and many many artefacts which he had collected over the years. It was an incredible testimony to his passion for the history of WW1 in his area. He offered me a Lee Enfield rifle to hold. I don't think I have ever held a gun in my life but I have obviously watched too many films for I was able to manipulate the bolt and open it ready to load it with ammunition. It was strange to hold such a powerful instrument of death .

Today we set off from central Bapaume after I had bought my bread from the only boulangerie open on a Sunday. Fortunately there were no ladies buying a dozen cakes and the delay was minimal. First we were heading for Ligny-Thilloy. We encountered a Sunday running club (for fatties it seemed) and we nearly kept up with them walking. After what seemed half an hour we passed a sign which said we were in Avesnes-les-Bapaume which we had passed last evening on the way in to Bapaume. 180Degree wrong turnings briefly flashed through the brain before we saw the sign for entering Ligny as expected. Phew! Next was Flers and then Longeval where we (deliberately) diverted 2 kms to see the South African Memorial.

On our return to Longeval we went in to the cafe/epeicerie/depot de pain/lottery seller/la poste/newsagent/wood seller/ garage selling petrol. The company store from the wild West came to mind. Drinking our coffee minding our own business as you do and in waltzed a boy of around 7 with his football who walked straight up to me and kissed my cheek. They do have some strange but endearing habits. His brother did the same and then his father … shook our hands and wished us “bonjour.”

Madame la Maire de Contalmaison

We had a “rendez-vous” with the Maire of Contalmaison which is the resting place of many of McRae's division. McRae's division consisted of many volunteer football teams including players from Hearts and Raith rovers. There is a fantastic cairn which was built by Scottish craftsmen in the village which has a current population of 123. 

The Maire arrived at the same time as us and proceeded to carry in the obvious means of a little civic reception. Bert had been expecting to lay his wreath and go and the Mairie was to be a little formality for the wreath was to be taken in to the Mairie after it was laid. Instead Madame Maire put her sash of office on and carrying a large bouquet accompanied us to lay Bert's wreath. It was quite a moving little ceremony. Pictures were taken then we were invited back to the Mairie for a very large slice of Apple tart and an equally large glass of bubbly.

It was a lovely relaxed little reception but we still had eleven kilometres (which turned out to be 13kms) to walk to Bray-sur-Somme. The flat terrain of Flanders has given way to the gently rolling and sometimes less gentle hills of Haut-Somme. The clue is the word haut. It was quite warm in the afternoon and we were not sorry to meet up with the gals in Bray-sur-Somme at around 4.30.

We have been parked up in the Ski centre parking for five nights which has suited the logistics of the walk and the visits to the school at Chamblain and chez Gerard and Irene and Freddie and Cecile. Amazingly our electricity has held out despite little chance for the solar panel to add anything back. Tonight we have moved a long way south to the municipal camp site at Albert. From what we saw as we drove through and a brief explore by me on my bike Albert seems a very attractive town. The plan is to stay here for two nights then head South to seek the sun.

June 18th Agny to Bapaume

Agny to Bapaume

Total distance: 25kms

Time: 5 hours

The day began two and a half hours earlier than planned when Pauline woke me up and told me to get dressed at 04.45. Shed had heard a slight banging noise and she though it must be burglars/murderers outside the van. It turned out that I had left the hot water boiler on and the noise was related to its continu

ed heating of hot water.

As we left to drive to Arras Bert noticed that the water filler cap was missing ( I had left it at the Aire de Services in Noeux-les-Mines yesterday when I filled up with water) Bert very kindly immediately insisted on going there to see if it was still there and luckily it was!

Fortunately the rest of the day went smoothly if a little damp in places. We called it the day of the church spires. As we reached one town/village the next was in view with its tall church spire as a navigation point on the very small chemins which were our territory today. From Agny we headed for Fichieux on a farm track always aiming for the church. Then it was Boiry St Martin where we aimed for the next land mark which was described as Chateau des eaux. It was a very tall water tower with telecommunication equipment on the top. Then it was the spire at Courcevelles-le-Compte. As we left the village we passed a very moving memorial to hundreds of Frenchmen who were killed very early in the war in October 1914.

Achiet-le-Grand was the next church spire target. When we arrived there was a cycle event being conducted on closed roads. It was a small local cycle event but one over - enthusiastic marshal suggested that we avoid the cycle route and walk a long way around. We explained that we intended to walk on the pavement and reluctantly he waved us through.

Up a steepish climb to Biefviller-les-Bapaume where all we could see of the church was the top of the spire and we thought we were nearly at Bapaume when we crested the hill and could see two spires in the near distance. Which one should we aim for? Were they both Bapaume? In the end we aimed for the nearest which turned out to be the Hotel de Ville outside which Susan and Pauline were waiting “supervised” by three Gendarmes who looked like they were yet to begin shaving.

We are looking forward to an evening at Freddy and Cecile's.

June 17th Loos-en-Gohelle to Agny

Loos-en-Gohelle to Agny

distance 31kms

time       6hrs 42

Impressive Vimy Monument

We set off realising that it was to be quite a long day and the forecast was for rain pretty much all day. It was dry at first which was a bonus. Our route took us to the east edge of greater Lens (Lens, Ardres, Lieven) It was built up and fairly uninteresting. By 11.30 we had left the Lens agglomeration behind and we were climbing the fairly steep approach to Vimy Ridge where a major battle took place in 1917 and where the Canadian Memorial is situated. Half way up I spied a cafe so a coffee stop was called.

The Vimy Canadian Memorial is a fantastic piece of sculpture which commands the heights of Vimy Ridge. It is a fitting tribute to the many Canadians who lost their lives but helped to make Canada the nation it is today.

From there our route was due south to Neuville St Vaast where we enjoyed a major stoke of good fortune. The sky had turned an ugly shade of grey which was becoming blacker by the second. I spied a bus in the distance and pretending to be sherlock holmes proceeded to deduce that there must be a bus stop. Just as the words left my mouth the heavens opened and we were lucky enough to reach the bus stop before we got too wet. Lunch in a bus stop with a seat watching the torrential rain was our best lunch stop for some time.

Leaving Neuville we made for Ecurie in strengthening rain trying to avoid a soaking from the cars splashing through the very wet road. Past Ecurie and it took us fully five minutes to cross the incredibly busy dual carriageway of the N25. Once across we were into greater Arras (St Catherine, Arras, Achicourt) which we were able to negotiate without major difficulty making good time.

We cleared the Arras agglomeration and were 2kms from the end at Agny when the heavens opened again and we arrived at the car opposite the Mairie in Agny soaking wet but satisfied with our days' effort.

As we were waiting for Bert and Susan to pick us up to go for dinner chez Gerard et Irene a a car on the road started tooting its horn and pointing (we thought at our van) shouting feu! Feu! Fire! Fire! It took me a few moments to realise that it was our Romanian neighbour who has been parked beside us for two days. He had been trying to cook inside on a gas stove and the canvas side panel of his van had caught alight. I rushed to get the fire extinguisher from our van and he came out of his van with the gas canister alight!! He put it down as far from the vans as he dared carry it and then went back to put it out with my fire extinguisher. Personally, I wouldn't have gone near it. What could have been a disaster was averted but everyone was shaking.

We arrived chez Gerard and Irene to meet Freddy Cecile and 8 year old Marianne. Gerard and Irene had gone to a lot of trouble to produce a wonderful meal despite Irene's afternoon hospital visit. They worked hard to put everyone at their ease and we all left far too soon having enjoyed a wonderful evening. I do hope that we have an opportunity in the future to reciprocate their generous hospitality.

June 16th Noeux-les-Mines to Loos-en-Gohelle

 Noeux-les-Mines to Loos en Gohelle

What a day!! We spent a peaceful night in the ski centre car park
and arrived for today's “short” walk of 17kms rested and raring to go at 9.00 am. We walked to Mazingarbe along a fairly busy road where we met up with the gals to place little commemorative poppy crosses at Robert Dunsire VC's grave.

Robert Dunsire VC's Gravestone

Unfortunately it started to rain just then and it gradually increased in intensity. Bert had organised a lovely little touch. While Pauline and Susan placed the crosses he played Robert Dunsire's song which I had recorded last year.

Earlier we had passed the abattoir wall where British soldiers were shot at dawn for cowardice ( which would almost certainly be recognised today as Post Traumatic Stress disorder ) Pour encourager les autres.

In the continuing drizzle we set off through Mazingarbe for Loos en Gohelle. It was an arrow straight busy road which went gradually uphill for several kilometres. The lorries surging past sent lovely showers to add to those from the heavens. Finally at the top of the hill we arrived at the British Cemetry at “Dud corner” so named because of the huge quantity of “dud” ammunition which was uncovered when the cemetery was being built.

I can honestly say that it was the most beautiful memorial I have ever seen. It was designed by a British architect Sir Herbert Baker and is visually stunningly beautiful as well as achingly poignant.

We took a short cut to Loos-en-Gohelle which is a pretty little town then headed out of town to meet the gals at Hill 70. Suffice to say that we reached the top without stopping and not out of breath. Hill 70 is little more than a rise in an otherwise flat landscape (apart from the pit bings) yet its capture cost (check the number) British lives.

The girls arrived just as we reached the top and we could see several Gendarmes controlling access to Lens. Today is England against Wales and the Maire is keen to keep out supporters without tickets and to minimize any trouble with a 24 hour alcohol ban. Coffee and a sandwich and we were off to Chamblain-Chatelaine for our visit to a primary school.

We set off early against the possibility of traffic difficulty cause by the football but in the end we got there smoothly and easily and an hour early. However as we arrived in the car park we were met and taken into the “canteen” for coffee and apple crumble. Everyone was very friendly when we were intoduced, and we were quickly put at ease. We were at the school because Gerard (surname to follow) had completed a project with the CM2 (primary 7) class about WW1 and they had researched their family trees back to the 1914 or beyond. The class knew we were coming and had prepared questions which ranged from the insightful and the straight forward to the usual child standby of “what is your favourite ?” The one question which I hadn't expected related to “Nessie” and whether we had seen her or not. We spent a good hour with the CM2 class then we had half an hour with the CM1 (primary 6 class) who again asked question which we did our best to answer.

The dinner lady had asked while I was having coffee why I wasn't wearing my kilt. I took it as a serious question and rattled on about how heavy it was and how much heavier when it was wet etc but her question was just a prelude to the real question which was “ What do you wear underneath?” This caused great hilarity among the other ladies. I told them that it was a well guarded Scottish secret and if I told them I would have to kill them afterwards.

Ecole Primaire Chamblain-Chatelaine

We exchanged gifts and Bert and Susan presented the class with a plate which showed all of Fife's mines on a map. All too soon the bell rang at 15.45 and it was time for the children to go home. Not the teachers. They gathered with Gerard ourselves and the head and two deputy mayors for a little reception. Visitors = good excuse for tea and cake. Two huge "tartes aux pommes" were produced and large tranches distributed. It was quite relaxed and the conversation flowed. Susan and myself were instantly back into staffroom mode.

At 17.00 we went to the Mairie which is next door to view an exhibition of Gerard's project and some other work by the CM2 class. Parents and interested local people were there as well as a smattering of the CM2 children. As is often the case in France there was a “top table” consisting of The president of the local society of which Gerard was a member, Gerard, Deputy Mayor, the CM2 teacher and the headteacher and our four selves. The form seemed to dictate that all spoke in turn thanking each other for coming and praising the children for their efforts. It fell to me to reply on our behalf so I followed the template by thanking everyone for their tremendous welcome and praising the children for their good behaviour and fantastic work. My French was strained to near breaking point but the President said that he had understood every word – I wish I could say the same for his. We were presented with bottles of wines and boxes of chocolates which was incredibly generous.

The exhibition was genuinely interesting and well presented but after about half an hour exhaustion hit suddenly and we all seemed to wilt at once. Once we deduced that politeness had been satisfied we left having enjoyed a fantastic unrepeatable experience.

June 15th Lillers to Noeux-les-Mines

June 15^th Lillers to Noeux-les-Mines

We spent a very comfortable night in the car park of the ski station in Noeux -les- Mines. The artificial ski slope has been created down the side of one of the largest ex pit bings which dominate the skyline in this area. Five minutes took us to just outside Susan and Bert's rather swish boutique hotel “Maison Rouge” where we met them in reception.

A quick blast up the A26 and we were ready to set of by 9.00am once I had found a boulangerie for my lunchtime sandwich. The outskirts of Lillers were uninspiring as were most of the towns and villages we passed today. Most of the walking was on reasonably busy roads (as opposed to yesterday's meander through the country lanes) but we made good progress for our 27.5 kms completed at an average speed of 4.5kms/h including all stops.

The only encounter of note was with an English lady who was visiting the British cemetery in Houchin. It was alongside the road so we decided to go in even though it had no particular significance to either of us. On the way in we speculated as to what her story might be. It transpired that her mother had married in haste a soldier who had died and was buried in Houchin. She then remarried and had children including the lady we encountered. Her mother often spoke of her first husband so our lady had made a difficult and expensive (courtesy of the football) trip to visit his grave. We left her waiting for a bus to Bethune on the wrong side of the road. I do hope she got back to Lille safely.

As we entered the hotel a little tired and weary the owner/manager explained to another client that we were the mad Scotsmen who were walking nearly 30kms every day ….. FOR FUN!

The gals were waiting for us in the comfort of the hotel lounge but they sprang to life and got us organised with a reviviing cold drink. Tomorrow should be interesting for we are booked to visit a primary school and attend a small reception at the Mairie.